I would ask Nick, the owner of Nicholson Music. The sound post location is also important. He restored my old violin to like new, and replaced the bridge and sound post. He has all the credentials.
Thanks, Larry. I’ll check his site out. Fred at THE VIOLIN SHOP is another great resource. He’s a stand up kinda guy and has done some good work for me in the past.
You’re right: bridge placement is just part of the story…sound post, string type, bow hair all play into a good violin sound…
I agree with both Larry and Casey, the violin/fiddle has to include the total instrument one mm or cm off can make a big difference for either bridge or sound post. I’ve been told that the inner notch on the f hole is supposed to be the correct location however I have seen bridges not set up like that. The Luthier by feel and experience can make micro adjustments to make it sound the best it can. In Portland I like Ed Geesman and David Kerr Violin shops to do my work.
For a quick set up out side the repair shop, goes as fallows. The distance from the start of the nut at the finger board to the middle of the bridge needs to be 355mm. From the middle of the bridge to the string rest point on the tail piece is 55mm to get the maximum vibration and sound out of your violin. As for the sound post it is very technical and personal preference on how you want your fiddle to sound and respond. I took out the fine tuners at the tail piece and installed the Witner Fine tuners These look like regular pegs but allow you to fine tune the violin with an effortless twist. By adding this style of fine tuners it allowed me to get the maximum string length before and after the bridge. I was able to do this work because I fix and repair violins, I highly recommend puting on the Witner tuners it changed the sound on the violin. Any profession shop should be able to do this. The cost is between $150-250 depending on the shop you go to.
.
